Blog Post

Advice on Acne

Victoria Hayes • 1 April 2020
Acne is a common skin condition, which affects millions of people of all ages around the world. It commonly presents with blackheads, whiteheads, pustules and papules on the face, back and/or the chest. In this post we will explore the nature and causes of acne; consider what factors might make it worse (or in their absence, better), what practical steps you can take to lessen the severity of acne and consider some of the common treatments. 

 Some Facts (and educated rumours) about Acne 

Acne is commonly classified as mild, moderate or severe, using grades 1-4:
  • Grade 1 consists of whiteheads and/or blackheads and the occasional pustule, none inflammatory; 
  • Grade 2 blackheads, papules, and a few pustules; 
  • Grade 3 inflammation with the addition of a few cysts  
  • Grade 4 being severe inflammation, with cysts, nodules and purplish in colour;
Studies have shown that cigarette smoking increases the risk of developing acne by four times (something else to add to the ‘con’ column smokers!). 

While the connection between acne and stress has been debated (i.e. it remains unproven), research indicates that increased acne severity is associated with high stress levels and I certainly remember that periods of high stress seemed to affect me more. 
Acne may be hereditary and indicative research suggests that you’re likely to be affected if one or more of your parents were.

Causes of Acne

Acne arises following an increase in hormone levels which stimulates oil production in the sebaceous (oil secreting) glands; this results in excess oil accumulating on the skin surface and clogging up the pores. 

When pores get clogged dead skin cells become trapped within them; this becomes an ideal breeding ground for a bacteria called Propionibacterium Acnes (P acnes), causing swelling and inflammation. Propionibacterium Acnes usually lives harmlessly on your skin and grow inside hair follicles, but when they get trapped in a blocked pore, they are starved of oxygen and multiply which can cause trouble for your skin.

Aggravating Factors for Acne

Unfortunately, stopping these things won’t cure your acne, but knowing them might help you manage it better:
  • Hair products - not rinsing thoroughly;
  • Bad skincare products - using incorrect or overly harsh products for your skin type;
  • Makeup - can block pores if not cleansed properly, try Mii mineral makeup; 
  • Dirty makeup brushes, sponges, towels;
  • Over stimulating the skin by using harsh facial scrubs; 
  • Stripping the skin’s natural oils with harsh alcohol toners’ 
  • Stress; 
  • Sun/increased temperature - heat triggers oil production; 
  • Touching your face - unavoidable I know, but will spread bacteria.

Ingredients and products to help with Acne 

Here are a few ingredients to look out for in products if you have issues with specific precursors of acne:
  • Reduction of oil - Vitamin A ( Retinal ) 
  • To Clear Blockages - Salicylic acid & Glycolic acid
  • Kills Bacteria - Tea tree
  • Reduce inflammation - Niacinamide 
  • Prevent / Improve scarring - Vitamin A & C
I recommend and use Medik8 products in my salon. Medik8 have a dedicated blemish range to help tackle all grades of Acne.

Treatments for Acne

Before having specific treatments you should book a consultation with your skincare specialist to formulate your plan of action. When working with clients I will typically consider one or more from a range of treatments, including:
  • Deep cleansing facials; 
  • Chemical Peels;
  • Microdermabrasion;
  • LED light therapy to reduce inflammation and bacteria; and 
  • Microneedling to smooth uneven pitted / scarred skin. 
Speak to a Facialist who will advise you on the best treatment for your skin or seek medical advice if the problem is persistent. 

Tips for people with Acne 

Here are some practical tips for things you can do today which can help with acne: 
  • Change your pillow cases more frequently;
  • Wash makeup brushes regularly and change to mineral makeup; 
  • Be gentle with your skin, don't use anything too abrasive; 
  • Don't touch or pick your face - keep your hands away! 
  • Stay out of the sun, contrary to popular belief it won't help and actually stimulates even more sebum (oil) production; 
  • For men, consider trimming as opposed to shaving; and 
  • Combine good homecare products (ask your specialist for recommendations) and in-salon treatments for best results.
  • When you start treatment expect your skin to get worse before it gets better. Purging may happen with deep cleansing products and treatments but keep going, your skin will become clearer. 
I hope you have enjoyed reading this post. Please comment below if you'd like any advice or suggestions on what you'd like to read about next. 

Vicky x
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